mOOners in Mexico

by Kris

Lake Chapala is the hub of adventures during the first three of our six months in Mexico. There are many incredibly interesting and amazingly varied day trips in the areas north, south, east, and west of Lago de Chapala. We've traveled in all directions, seen wonderful sights, and have experienced the charm of small villages as well as the attractions of metropolitan Guadalajara. At the top of the list of places visited, we'd put our journey, by motorboat, to a small island off the village of Mezcala on Lake Chapala's north shore. La Isla Mezcala is a very important landmark in Mexican history and it was a privilege to learn about, explore, and touch the remnants of such a culturally revered landscape.

Salvador Navarro Sánchez, author of "The Island of Mezcala - La Gesta Olvidada " ("Mezcala Island - the Forgotten Exploit") writes that...." A tiny band of rebels on Mezcala Island played a pivotal role in Mexico's struggle for independence from Spain. From 1812 - 1816 a small band of Indian and mestizo rebels defended the island from Spanish General Jose de la Cruz. A massacre of 800 villagers by the Spaniards at Tizapán el Alto on the south side of Lago de Chapala galvanized support for the rebels and they withdrew to Mezcala Island, where they started building fortifications. From their island fortress, the insurgents raided the mainland with daring, falling upon the enemy and returning to Mezcala Island loaded with supplies. An all-out attempt by 40 Spanish soldiers to storm the island was fought off. Mezcala's fame spread through-out Mexico and kept alive fading hopes of independence from Spain. But typhoid was the un-beatable enemy, reducing the rebel ranks to half. Those still alive surrendered and, surprisingly, de la Cruz agreed not to punish them and instead gave each man farmland, cattle and seed."

The Spanish leader giving the rebel soldiers not only their lives and freedom, but farmland, cattle, and seed, is mind boggling even now. This was a time of drastic retribution - often with heads on stakes - against insurgents upon capture. What a message of hope this promise made and kept was to the Mexican people during the revolution - and because of such hope and determination the Mexicans eventually prevailed.

After the surrender of the rebels, the military possibilities of Isla Mezcala appealed to the controlling Spaniards and from 1819 through 1855 the island was used as a military base and a prison. Most of the remaining ruins we viewed are from this period of time.

Our half hour boat ride from the village of Mezcala (more about that another blogging day) to the Isla was aboard the local fishing panga/tourist boat "Dany" operated this day by Dany's father. Dany, an enterprising young local man, was out of town studying English. Dany is preparing for the influx of visitors he anticipates shuttling to and from the island when the reconstruction project is complete. In the two years since local residents, Russ and Ruth Ann, last visited la Isla Mezcala, much has been re-built and re-paved (including the cobblestone road from the boat landing to the top of the hill) using strictly on-site original rocks and materials.

Once we reached the plateau of the hilly island we were met by the guard/policia who does double duty as a somewhat casual but informative guide. We were given access to all the ruins and areas being rebuilt but were asked not to take photographs inside the church and of the reconstruction process.

I made every attempt to honor this rule, and did.  I also took so many pictures on the island that my digital camera battery died - and our good amigas, Gigi and Ruth Ann, filled in my photographic gaps. In addition to great scenery, the day of our trip was sunny and warm - the norm for perpetually spring-like Lago de Chapala  -  more importantly the air was clear and fresh - more rare where "spare the air days" are an unknown concept.

Approaching the docked and ready for departure vessel, "Dany"

View of La Isla Mezcala from the lake

The landing area and site of re-construction materials

Beginning the cobble-stoned trek up the hill

The amazing Banyan(?) Tree

Site of the tannery area built and used by the prisoners during the later years

Workers carrying bags of lime for re-construction toward the plateau location of the fort and other buildings

Sign of historical information and the re-construction process with credit to sponsoring groups

Guard dog taking a breather

Mauricio likewise enjoying a stand-up siesta

Looking back at the village of Mezcala on Lake Chapala's north shore

The church from a (respectful of our host's request) distance

A native inhabitant - thankfully a dead one

Part of the vast cobble-stone courtyard outside the fort - sloping toward the moat

Interior courtyard of the fort

View of Lake Chapala's south shore and part of the moat surrounding the fort

Boveda ceiling inside the living/kitchen areas of the fort

On the cobble-stone road down to the hospital/prison note the elevated perpendicular "cannon stops" (foreground) to assist soldiers hauling cannons from the un-loading sites on the island's shore up to the fort

Entering the hospital/prison - either usage of the building quite dark and oppressive

 Looking toward the entrance of the hospital - Spanish patients on one side; Mexicans on the other

Over-view of livestock pens and food storage areas

 Ovens and cooking areas

Corn drawing in the granary 

Fire place  

Man-talk about the water filtration system 

Looking at the hospital/prison from the water as we leave the island 

A reflective ride back to the village - reflective green hues from the sun-shade - peacefully reflective faces from the experience of La Isla Mezcala.

mOOners