mOOners in Mexico

by Kris

We love our Bigfoot truck camper; we must because we've been "full-timing" (RV speak for living in it) for almost two years and we're still happy and comfortable. All the tech gadgets, the two 125 watt solar panels, the satellite internet dish, our Macs and music gizmos aside, we try to keep the systems and accomodations simple. The original interior was pleasant but not inspiring.

We weren't sure how we wanted to personalize our home until I fell in love with a colorful picture at an art fair in Ajijic, Jalisco last spring. The artist, Luz, a beautiful young Mexicana, explained the title of her painting, "Once Flores de Mexico" to mean "Eleven Flowers of Mexico" with the ten bright amarillo flowers and the faceless woman of the vase representing the eleventh flower that is all women...I cried when she told me because I am una mamacita y abuelita (grandma) y amiga de muchas flores muy especiales.

The many colors of the picture came to life in fabric (8 yards of rich red for cushions, curtains, and valances for $22US in Morelia, Michoacán) and multi striped shawls, and brightly hued pillows depicting scenes of life in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán. The paper maché angel on the wall was created by a student of a special school in Tapalpa, Jalisco.

The cocina is brightened by the hand blown wine glasses from Tonalá; the glass holder "borrowed" from our sailboat, fullmOOn. The cheery "sun" is also from the children of Tapalpa.

The rug was hand woven by Margarita, a vendor in Chapala who is an absolute sweetheart y una amiga muy especial. Ken sewed the duvet from two queen sheets - I love a man who sews.

Framed and firmly attached to the wall and travel ready is my favorite picture.

Like all the treasures we've surrounded ourselves with, "Once Flores de Mexico" is a colorful reminder of all the places and people who make Mexico our happy second home...

mOOners

by Kris

I am so impressed with friends who journal their lives and adventures on a daily basis. How disciplined are they? Each evening here in Roca Azul, Paulita hollers from their camper to ours something like, "How do you spell Tapalpa?" as she faithfully enters the events of our (often shared) daily experiences. What a wonderful gift to herself (and to Geraldo) to have a beautifully written remembrance of where they were, what they did, and when. I rely on the dated pictures in "iphoto" for my travel calendar - and this blog, while depicting our adventures, in no way itemizes the events of our daily lives. I don't have the desire to write "mOOners in Mexico" as a today we ate breakfast, walked around town, went for a swim, yada yada blurb.  Not my style, certainly not my random personality. A journal, on the other hand, would be a personal diary of sorts and a therapy treatment at the same time.  I need to get with the program and start writing in the empty book I bought  three months ago for this trip. Yikes!

Paulita and I know one of the world's most amazing journalers, a woman we met in Pátzcuaro last spring. Pat puts the Art in the art of journaling. Her journals are beautifully illustrated depictions of her travels throughout Mexico. These pictures show Pat's stories....

A tree in the Villa Pátzcuaro RV Park was the entry we last saw Pat enter in her on-going journal.

The magnificent and ancient arból will never look grander than in the pages of Pat's journal. No finer legacy can she leave her family than her journals of who she was and how she saw the world around her. ¡Que rico!

mOOners

by Kris

Before we were seriously distracted by Ken's heart situation, I was mid-stream in a re-cap of 2008's pleasures of tastes. These are highlights of the year, not daily dining experiences. The cheesey, dairy drenched, often fat laden plates accompanying this blogging are not indicative of our normal dietary intake. And many of the delicious looking plates are those of amigos. Unlike Ken, I have semi high blood pressure and higher than I'd like cholesterol (but a good ratio with my HDL level) so we are cognizant of what we consume on a regular basis. We generally eat with three food thoughts in mind; "The Zone" (balancing fats/carbs/proteins), "Eat Right for Your (Blood) Type" (we're both O's), and eating smaller portions and/or sharing a meal. This is healthy but not exciting enough for a highlights segment of foodie delights. Yum, half a tuna sandwich on whole grain (not wheat..bad for O's) bread....

With this in mind let's rewind and continue our tasteful journey of the year past beginning with one special evening in Maruata on the Pacific coast-line of the Mexican state of Michoacán.

The day's catch of langosta in two photos to more perfectly capture the meal - on the grill

and on the beachfront table...

We invited our Maruata family for a comida de spaghetti and Wendy enjoyed slurping pasta like every other kid I've known. Can I be sued for saying Coke is the worst thing that ever happened to Mexico?

Yuck, drinking fresh from the coco must've led to the creation of rum...

Our beach buddies, Steve y Danielle, treated us to an anniversary dinner of palapa pizza. Same beach side table, same condiments...salsa picante de Chapala, y tomates, y aguacates y cervesa.

Two weeks later we're home in wonderfully springy (a continuation of our winter weather :-) Northern California. Our kids surprised us with a welcome home party and the fun and great food continued. It was soo good to see all my girls.....

We had the most incredible six months at home with our family and friends. Ken and Russen were celebrated on "Father's Day" with brunch on the front patio of the Bird Farm....our newest family hang-out. Mimosa cheers all around.

If we have wine questions at home, we know who to ask...our fabulous daughter-in-law, Shannon.

What's summer without birthday parties?? Our youngest grandbaby, Jackson, turned two in July.

When I was a kid, the summer ended much too soon. The older I get they zip by even faster. Bummer! But hey, we don't have to go back to school...and we get to go back to Mexico!

A November reunion with our Guadalajara Gals began with a trip to Tlaquepaque, a shopper's haven and a memorable dining experience at "El Patio". Guadalupe has a watchful eye on the camarero serving the tortas ahogadas. She still has our vote for the best of these "drowned sandiches."

We have discovered a favorite dish in a favorite restaurant - can't wait to mention it to our amigos at our other favorite eatery, La Placita, when we return to Orangevale. Chiles en Nogada is a classic dish of celebration for Mexican Independence Day. The colorful presentation of green poblano chile, white walnut sauce, and red pomegranite seeds represent the Mexican flag. Absolutely delicious.  Agostín's interpretation in his San Juan Cosalá restaurant, Tia Lupita, is true to the taste and heritage of the dish. ¡Viva Mexico!

From my earliest visits to Mexico in the late 60's I have had a love for many things Mexican but perhaps none so much as my fondness for muebles de Equipale - the rustic furniture made of wood and pigskin. Our little patio in Roca Azul is just the right spot for a table and chairs and nuestro amigo and landlords, Oscar y Ana, graciously offered to house them during our six month absence. We ordered our set from the "Casa Laguna" factory in Zocualco, the home of Equipale. Sitting in these chairs is being hugged and welcomed to a table of good food, good drink, and always good company.

To celebrate the Equipale, our neighbors Sonia and Dave, put together a sampling of breakfast treats from their British Columbia bed and breakfast. The gathering was our usual congenial group of Canadians, Mexicanos, and us. ¡Que rico!

The main course...

The outstanding frittata..

Sonia, you are the wonderwoman de la cocina....we're all still talking about this meal and hoping for a repeat!

Another great chef in the making is Oscar's bride of nine months, Ana. We've had the pleasure of dining in their home and the hospitality is matched only by the delicious meals. For a newlywed she is way beyond boiling water....if you could taste this casserole and these potatoes, you'd agree.

 Our Roca Azul Christmas Eve fiesta was a potluck of exceptional tastes. How is it that there is always the right combination of veggies and salads and desserts to compliment the main dish when everyone contributes?

Fruitcake, not the joke variety, but really delicious melt in your mouth morsels of holiday goodness. Seasonal tunes on the Bose (Thanks Casey & Russen!) were international...even a little salsa...if not dancing at Christmas, when?

Just like this plate, the year is all gone...terminado...

We've reached the end of another great year; on the plate and off.

Now I'm ready for my breakfast of spelt cereal with fruit and soy milk. Ooooh, and freshly squeezed orange juice...

Hold the camera.

mOOners

by Kris

"Yesterday Dr. Garcia saved my friend's life.

I called him in the morning to report that a visiting friend was complaining of chest pains and Dr. Garcia said, bring him right up to my office in Guad, I'll be waiting.

We arrived at the office and my friend was given an EKG, then physical exam, then an ECHO, and consult advising him that we needed to leave immediately for Puerto Hierro Hospital de Especialdades for the cath lab. Dr. Garcia drove us.
Upon catheterization it was discovered that his left anterior coronary artery was 100% blocked. A medicated (with blood thinner) stent was inserted and my friend is resting well and looking a whole lot more healthy.

Dr. Garcia couldn't have been more professional or caring.  Hospital Puerto de Hierro de Especialdades was absolutely beautiful and the entire staff and experience was incredible. Easy for me to say, right?

I can HIGHLY recommend Dr. Ramón Garcia Garcia, who lives here at Lake Chapala and does see patients here during limited hours, and who will respond to your house in the middle of the night, initiate treatment and personally drive you up to the hospital in Guad if you are having a critical cardiac event. He is a gem. Speaks English, too.

His cell phone is 333 157 4741 and his Ajijic phone is 766 0812 or 766-4622."

***********

This informative blurb was written for the "Westenders forum" at Lago de Chapala, by Marilyn, our Jocotepec amiga muy especial. The friend she wrote about was Ken. Our Ken. The man who had no previous heart problems, no high blood pressure, no high cholesterol, nada. Mi esposo, mi amor. My fabulous husband who plays his guitarra and sings songs to me. The strong intelligent man who can do anything. The family man who adores our kids and grandbabies. My editor in chief. The best friend I'm growing old with and sharing the best time of my life with; my Ken.

Ken first experienced chest pain - which we now know as stable angina - when he exerted himself lifting and carrying furniture when our daughter, Casey, and her family moved last summer. He thought it was a strain because it went away when he rested. He again experienced it during our first salsa dancing lesson and we thought it was heartburn or that the 5,000' elevation was a factor --- or he was trying to get out of the class. The next episode occurred during a New Year's Eve day hike with our friends, Dave and local resident, Fernando con su hijo, Jesus, to dig up the root vegetable, camote de cerro, an exotic treat Ken loves. Not every gringo shares his taste for camote and fewer yet would climb up a mountain to find and carefully excavate the vine leading to the edible roots.

The chest tightness and shortness of breath that day led to a discussion with our friend, Ivan, who is a quadruple bypass survivor and a fine specimen of a man at 80; followed by another chat with Marilyn at a New Year's Day celebration. Obviously the right woman to put on the trail of local medical care, Marilyn was a cardiac nurse in the Bay Area and an EMT before retiring to Mexico, where she's been involved with the local Cruz Roja (Red Cross) and remains dedicated in the pursuit of life-saving machinery and a fully outfitted ambulance for the area. (I realize that's a damn long sentence but it's full of pertinent and interesting information :0)

Friday, January 2, we drove into Guadalajara - rather we were chauffered by our Roca Azul RV park buddies, Chuck and Gigi (everyone else in Roca Azul offered, too!) with Marilyn as our medical and advanced Spanish speaking liaison. The five of us have shared many wonderful Mexican adventures but this was a very different and certainly more somber trip.  During the forty five minute drive to Guadalajara we talked about heart procedures experienced by Chuck and Gigi as patients and Marilyn as medical professional. The talk was encouraging in light of the unknown we faced.

Ken and Marilyn chatted about the imminent EKG and other tests in Dr. Garcia's waiting room...

Dr. Ramón Garcia Garcia inspired confidence from the beginning of our relationship. His English is deliberate and easily understood whether speaking or typing reports. The information he gave was simple in words but powerfully profound. The stable angina was now classified unstable, "Either you get on an airplane and fly home for an angiogram - which I don't recommend for obvious reasons - or you come with me right now to the hospital." No brainer. Chuck, Gigi, and I followed the Doctor's car into areas of Guadalajara we didn't know existed to a hospital that looks more like a luxury hotel.

Here in its architectural glory is Hospital Puerto Hierro de Especialidades in the Zapopan district.

Within moments of registering into the hospital Ken was whisked into the "cath lab". He undressed and put his clothes on a bench next to another pile of clothes which he later realized were the doctor's. That, to me, is symbolic of this highly respected cardiologist's totally un-pretentious non-superior attitude. Marilyn was thrilled to be invited to watch the procedure as a professional courtesy. I was happy that Ken was with someone we both love and whose medical knowledge we value and respect. Ken was comforted with her presence. The angioplasty was shown in-progress on a screen and Ken could watch - which he found fascinating as someone interested in, not only his health, but technology and science. Gigi, Chuck, and I were shown to Ken's post-procedure room where we found a pleasant waiting environment complete with a menu for room service.

Lunch is served...where else but Mexico a cervesa offering hospital? Heineken, the only brand, was a mystery.

The procedure went smoothly with the injected dye coursing through arteries as it should except for the 100% blockage of the left anterior artery, a main street in the road map of the heart. Dr. Garcia said, "we're going to have to open" and Ken turned to Marilyn and asked, "what does open mean" to which Marilyn replied, "Open." With visions of scalpels and chest expanders, Ken said the room became a blur of activity. Fortunately "Open" meant with a balloon and a medicated stent and not a full-blown open heart surgery. Soon the screen showed blood surging through the previously blocked artery and the procedure was declared a success. Marilyn said the change in his skin tone to a rosy pink was instantaneous.

Our recovery room; ecstasy, relief, and gratitude with lots of joy and love.

Because of the powerful blood thinner used to open the massive blockage within the artery walls, Ken had to lay perfectly still on his back for the better part of the next 24 hours. Any movement could cause uncontrolled bleeding from the groin area entry of the angioplasty. During a late night exam there was bleeding at the wound site and doctors and nurses had to apply strong pressure to stop the flow for most of 30 minutes. For much of the first night he had a heavy weight placed on the wound to apply constant pressure. This caused quite a bit of discomfort because of the still inserted catheter. A long sleepless night for my patient.

Saturday, Chuck, Gigi, and I visited and had an enjoyable time watching a movie - until it stopped pretty close to the end...sometimes with 15 peso movies you get what you pay for. Ken was raring to go home; messages of love from our RV and Lake Chapala friends were added incentive to get home. Ken, the truest student of Español I know, has many funny stories of interactions with nurses, and food service people - now we know to study more medical and hospital terms, just in case. In talking to the wonderfully friendly non English speaking woman in charge of Ken's check-out procedure I got to the point of tugging my ear and saying, "it sounds like.." and we all cracked up. I won't win any awards for my Spanish speaking prowess but on occasion I do get points for style and a smile.

Sunday afternoon Ken was released amid good-byes and thank you hugs to the staff who were so wonderfully helpful and professional. I know they enjoyed Ken as a patient - he's not a demanding soul in the least and many of his caretakers were delighted with him as interpreter for their practice of English. There is definitely no language barrier for words of friendship and appreciation.

Leaving the hospital, it appears rosa is the color of the day. I especially love those rosy pink cheeks.

Ken is "home" (wherever we are is home) and recuperating comfortably. Our neighborhood in Roca Azul is amazing; there are twelve of us (six couples including Ivan and Evi staying in a Roca casa) who enjoy an occasional comida together here (we are happy, funny, and creative foodies!) or trips to town or day excursions to nearby areas. We have just the right balance of friend time and couple time. Everyone at home in the states, though concerned about us being sooo far away and in a "foreign" country,  took comfort in the messages of our incredible experience. Jerry and Paula, our Nova Scotia amigos, enroute to Roca during the ordeal, are anxious to get here and join the celebration of Ken's new and improved health. Our financial advisor, Carol, has a plan for paying the bills totalling $16,000.00 US - more than a little ding in the travel-kitty. And Kaiser, our home health care provider, has re-imbursement claim forms for just such out of country emergencies. Our youngest daughter, Casey, says "Papa Bear now has a magic heart to match his magic ears.." and she's right and funny, as usual.

I took pictures of so much in and around the hospital - even the Ferrari/Maserati dealership down the street.

But, I have not one photograph of Dr. Garcia, the man who saved my precious husband's life. Every time we spoke with him, I was too focused on him (and Ken) to even think of the camera. When we met again  yesterday for the post-op visit, he performed the examination, declared Ken physically ready to get on with life, then asked if we had any questions. Ken said, "just one, it's about your bill." Dr. Garcia handed Ken the itemized statement and said, "this is not important, you pay when you can." The bill was marked "paid in full" so we can send it home for re-imbursement now. So, though I don't have a photograph of Dr. Ramón Garcia Garcia, if you want a picture, visualize an Angel.

mOOners

by Kris

This blog entry will make you run to the fridge or grab an Alka Seltzer....after downsizing the photos I'm not going to eat for a day or two. We wish we could share the wonderful smells and tastes of this incredible year but this is as close as it gets.

January in Jocotepec was prime berry - raspberry (frambuesa) and strawberry (fresa) - season and we knew the fields with the best segundos (seconds supposedly but in reality the ripe ones that won't make it to market in the US). French toast is elevated to a new level with these beauties.

The Fiesta of the Three Kings in nearby Cahititlán draws thousands of celebrants - six of us from Roca Azul by accident...and the food vendors line every (truly) street. Amazing. Our butts were dragging by afternoon and our choice of what to eat was determined by what vendor had a table. After our decent tacos de res (beef) we encountered this woman with the most appealing bowl of steamed fresh veggies and I had that "coulda-had-a V-8" moment...and she knows it!

Savoring the last bite of a favorite dish is que rico and muy triste at the same time. Rich and sad. This final delectable morsel of our amiga Guadalupe's Tortas Ahogadas Gema is beyond belief. My tastebuds will never be the same.

No better choice for a cool winter (spring like in Joco but chilly) dinner than the goodness of freshly hand-crafted tamales of chicken and pork.

January went out with a buzz at Gigi's birthday party with our Guadalajara "Girls" - Guadalupe y Concepción joining the festivities.

I have a molcajete, the lava rock bowl for making salsa and grinding spices etc...This molcajete is overflowing with camarones y pulpo y queso y cebollas shrimp and octopus and cheese and onions. Yes octopus. Not so big on the pulpo but the camarones were succulent and well, anything smothered in queso is fine by me.

In February we "moved" from Roca Azul and Joco to the beautiful Casa de Loop, the lake-view hillside home of Russ and Ruth Ann Loop, friends from the campground. Ken helped Russ with some yard work and other projects and I followed Ruth Ann around la cocina and watched her do amazing things with chickens. Ken and Russ share my appreciation. Ken is thinking "My God, I love this woman." Russ is thinking, "Ho hum another delicious meal.."

We were completely spoiled after a month of Ruth Ann's culinary talents and the kick-ass customized margaritas of Russ. Other social obligations forced us to leave the warmth of their hospitality and the comfort of their cocina. The shock of cooking again was lessoned by the ever-present and always inexpensive Mexican vendorias in every town. This lonche is a prime example of why fast food here is waaaay better than fast food NOB. For six pesos we shared this sandwich of many meats (I didn't ask...) and queso y chiles y cebollas. Even sharing we couldn't eat it all.

Springtime in Pátzcuaro, if not actually a song, is a melody of sights and sounds and, of course, tastes. Our good fortune in making friends hit another jackpot here with the amigos in the local RV park. RV people have a common bond of being adventurous and that extends to fooding. The Happy Hour is kicked up a notch in this group with the sharing of regional dishes and libations. My new specialty, (muchisimas gracias, Ana) is Sangrita, a delicious companion beverage for Tequila. It is refreshing and vivacious and colorful. I would tatoo the recipe on my arse if I had room. No comment.

Our new and muy especiál amiga, Paulita de Nova Scotia, created the most delicious cucumbers - even though she loves me dearly she said she'd have to kill me if she gave me the recipe. Looking at them you sense the refreshing scintillation of the dish.

Fine dining experiences are plentiful in Pátzcuaro...shown are a few highlights from the menu at Rick's. Geraldo de Nova Scotia was mid-bite and un-apologetic to the photographer. My dinner of pumpkin ravioli with squash blossom sauce (lower right) was perhaps the winner of best plate on the table. Geraldo doesn't look convinced or concerned about what he's missing...

The nearby fishing village of Zirahuén is on one of the prettiest and cleanest lakes in Mexico. Our comida was the "catch of the day" a very bright and fresh white-fish and a damn good chile relleno.

Every so often you get a bad meal even in Mexico --- our carne asada was sooo bad (how bad was it? shoe leather bad..) so we took the advice of our dinner mates who said, " in Mexico you can never go wrong with the carne ranchera." It makes sense - it's simmered in a sauce so it has more of a chance to be tender and tasty. Memorize this picture and be confident with your order. If it's too bad have another cervesa.

.....to be continued.

mOOners