mOOners in Mexico

by Kris

Many of life's most memorable experiences are those seen through the eyes and heard through the ears of others. Saturday evening in San Miguel de Allende I watched and listened with delight as my husband, Ken, rapturously enjoyed a musical performance of "El Ritmo de la Vida" by "Gil y Pedro y Doc."  "The Rhythm of Life" is an appropriate title and description for the sounds on the program by this outstanding group of musicians centered around guitarist, Gil Gutiérrez; violinist, Pedro Cartas, and world-renowned trumpet maestro, Doc Severinsen. Yes, THAT Doc Severinsen.

 
Doc Severinsen moved to the slower pace of San Miguel in 2006 and heard the world class (Pedro Cartas was first chair violinist for the Cuban National Symphony for 8 years) duo of "Gil y Cartas" at an Italian restaurant near the village centro. "Gil y Cartas" have performed together for twelve years and have developed a style and reputation all their own. Doc was so impressed with their talent that he came out of "retirement" and asked to play with them. "...According to Doc, "When I heard them play I knew that I would be playing with them for some time to come. Latino music, along with the blues, has always been among my favorites, and Gil and Pedro do it along with a European style that I love and so do our audiences. They are mature, gifted young men who play great, look great, and PLUS, we share a great lifestyle together. Our music is totally organic to us."  Organic to them and orga__ic to the audience.

Doc plays (what most would call practice) two hours a day. Every Day.

 

 The percussionist performs...

 
Pedro Carta doesn't play the violin; he is the violin

Pedro y Gil...the creators and heart of "El Ritmo de la Vida"

Ken's appreciation of the musicians and their performances was a complete and sensory joy. He's a wonderful guitarist and pianist in his own right; how many RV'ers (truck campers at that) have a MIDI set up for playing and recording? I have always known and respected his love of music but never felt it as much as during this intimate concert of talented and passionate artists. The music was classical Spanish with a touch of jazz; ballads and jams from "Sweet Georgia Brown" to a magical rendition of Ken's favorite Mexican song, "Cucurrucucu."  It truly was Ken's night!

After the show we were introduced to Doc by our San Miguel friends who board their horses with Doc's at a local ranch. Doc is extremely gracious, fabulously handsome, and fit as Pedro's fiddle at age 80. What a blessing for him and the world of music that he's found these amazingly gifted and talented musicians in his golden years...looking at and talking with Doc you realize that it is passion that keeps us alive and vibrant.

Ken and Pedro - musician to musician

Ken and Gil guitarist to guitarist

Ken and the one and only Doc Severinsen

I would never miss a photo opportunity with such passionately handsome gentlemen

I am a blessed woman to have a man who shares such a passion y "El Ritmo de la Vida." And to have wonderful friends like Mike and Teri who share our love of music (and Mexico) and treated us to a very special and unforgettable evening.

Muchisimas gracias, amigos.

mOOners
 

by Kris

Lake Chapala is the hub of adventures during the first three of our six months in Mexico. There are many incredibly interesting and amazingly varied day trips in the areas north, south, east, and west of Lago de Chapala. We've traveled in all directions, seen wonderful sights, and have experienced the charm of small villages as well as the attractions of metropolitan Guadalajara. At the top of the list of places visited, we'd put our journey, by motorboat, to a small island off the village of Mezcala on Lake Chapala's north shore. La Isla Mezcala is a very important landmark in Mexican history and it was a privilege to learn about, explore, and touch the remnants of such a culturally revered landscape.

Salvador Navarro Sánchez, author of "The Island of Mezcala - La Gesta Olvidada " ("Mezcala Island - the Forgotten Exploit") writes that...." A tiny band of rebels on Mezcala Island played a pivotal role in Mexico's struggle for independence from Spain. From 1812 - 1816 a small band of Indian and mestizo rebels defended the island from Spanish General Jose de la Cruz. A massacre of 800 villagers by the Spaniards at Tizapán el Alto on the south side of Lago de Chapala galvanized support for the rebels and they withdrew to Mezcala Island, where they started building fortifications. From their island fortress, the insurgents raided the mainland with daring, falling upon the enemy and returning to Mezcala Island loaded with supplies. An all-out attempt by 40 Spanish soldiers to storm the island was fought off. Mezcala's fame spread through-out Mexico and kept alive fading hopes of independence from Spain. But typhoid was the un-beatable enemy, reducing the rebel ranks to half. Those still alive surrendered and, surprisingly, de la Cruz agreed not to punish them and instead gave each man farmland, cattle and seed."

The Spanish leader giving the rebel soldiers not only their lives and freedom, but farmland, cattle, and seed, is mind boggling even now. This was a time of drastic retribution - often with heads on stakes - against insurgents upon capture. What a message of hope this promise made and kept was to the Mexican people during the revolution - and because of such hope and determination the Mexicans eventually prevailed.

After the surrender of the rebels, the military possibilities of Isla Mezcala appealed to the controlling Spaniards and from 1819 through 1855 the island was used as a military base and a prison. Most of the remaining ruins we viewed are from this period of time.

Our half hour boat ride from the village of Mezcala (more about that another blogging day) to the Isla was aboard the local fishing panga/tourist boat "Dany" operated this day by Dany's father. Dany, an enterprising young local man, was out of town studying English. Dany is preparing for the influx of visitors he anticipates shuttling to and from the island when the reconstruction project is complete. In the two years since local residents, Russ and Ruth Ann, last visited la Isla Mezcala, much has been re-built and re-paved (including the cobblestone road from the boat landing to the top of the hill) using strictly on-site original rocks and materials.

Once we reached the plateau of the hilly island we were met by the guard/policia who does double duty as a somewhat casual but informative guide. We were given access to all the ruins and areas being rebuilt but were asked not to take photographs inside the church and of the reconstruction process.

I made every attempt to honor this rule, and did.  I also took so many pictures on the island that my digital camera battery died - and our good amigas, Gigi and Ruth Ann, filled in my photographic gaps. In addition to great scenery, the day of our trip was sunny and warm - the norm for perpetually spring-like Lago de Chapala  -  more importantly the air was clear and fresh - more rare where "spare the air days" are an unknown concept.

Approaching the docked and ready for departure vessel, "Dany"

View of La Isla Mezcala from the lake

The landing area and site of re-construction materials

Beginning the cobble-stoned trek up the hill

The amazing Banyan(?) Tree

Site of the tannery area built and used by the prisoners during the later years

Workers carrying bags of lime for re-construction toward the plateau location of the fort and other buildings

Sign of historical information and the re-construction process with credit to sponsoring groups

Guard dog taking a breather

Mauricio likewise enjoying a stand-up siesta

Looking back at the village of Mezcala on Lake Chapala's north shore

The church from a (respectful of our host's request) distance

A native inhabitant - thankfully a dead one

Part of the vast cobble-stone courtyard outside the fort - sloping toward the moat

Interior courtyard of the fort

View of Lake Chapala's south shore and part of the moat surrounding the fort

Boveda ceiling inside the living/kitchen areas of the fort

On the cobble-stone road down to the hospital/prison note the elevated perpendicular "cannon stops" (foreground) to assist soldiers hauling cannons from the un-loading sites on the island's shore up to the fort

Entering the hospital/prison - either usage of the building quite dark and oppressive

 Looking toward the entrance of the hospital - Spanish patients on one side; Mexicans on the other

Over-view of livestock pens and food storage areas

 Ovens and cooking areas

Corn drawing in the granary 

Fire place  

Man-talk about the water filtration system 

Looking at the hospital/prison from the water as we leave the island 

A reflective ride back to the village - reflective green hues from the sun-shade - peacefully reflective faces from the experience of La Isla Mezcala.

mOOners

by Kris

Duffie, four legged furry that he is, knows nothing about New Year's Resolutions. I know about them and rebel at the thought of making them for myself. I did, however, make one for Duffie this year -- to stay clean(er) and white(er) by not rolling in usually brown and always smelly stuff. He can disappear for a nanosecond on our morning walk and re-appear with a racing stripe of "perfume" that is beyond appreciation by my human nose. As far as I can tell the other dogs aren't that impressed either. Perhaps Caesar (that Caesar, man and dog's best friend and teacher, "The Dog Whisperer") has a remedy for this behavior. Duffie's such an exemplary canine companion that he deserves all the fun and joy available to pups and he does enjoy a good "roll" in the smelly stuff and is awfully proud of his accomplishment.

Duffie outlasted most humans I know with the duration of his/my resolution by making it to the end of January. Pretty good by most standards. His un-doing occurred during a campfire at Roca Azul. The roaring fire (Martín, the park handy-man, trimmed trees and made an impressive bonfire size wood-pile) under the starry sky and the full mOOn was an enjoyable way to spend a spring-like evening and attracted all the campers and at least one un-invited guest. I let Duffie cruise around un-leashed as usual (he  wanders a bit but stays in touch) not even remotely thinking that the more exotic creatures of the night were out and about. Our friend, Roger, tossed something into the fire that created dramatic colors and I thought it must have been rubber because suddenly I smelled burnt rubber. About the same time Duffie came to me and he had the sheepish look of a dog up to no good. I smelled his face (P-U) and thought he'd somehow rolled in whatever Roger burned. Another camping friend, Genia, took a whiff and with expert testimony proclaimed Duffie to be a another victim of the skunk that sprayed her Schnauzer, Fritz a few days earlier. UGH!
End of stories and jokes around the campfire...time for an emergency bath or two or three.

While the water heated in the camper, I gave Duffie a preliminary hosing with cold water and a medicated shampoo. He was not a happy camper but even he seemed to realize this particular brand of perfume was a bit much - kinda like the women you smell in the grocery store before you see them two aisles away..
With hot water and oatmeal/aloe/baking soda doggie shampoo we had a not altogether un-pleasant shower together in the camper -- I was tempted to use the shampoo myself it smelled so good.
After a vigorous toweling and a sniff test we decided the residual skunky odor was not so bad that we'd do a third shampoo. We fluffed him up and made a comfy bed for him in the shower and turned on the fantastic fan to air out the joint...

Next morning he was vibrantly white and fluffy and smelled a little pungent (what's with the burnt rubber effect?) but with a fresh aloe tang.

Duffie was none the worse for the experience and I was squeaky clean myself. Fortunately he had a not so close encounter with the black and white striped kitty and maybe (just maybe) it was enough to prevent future skunk vs pooch events. I think I'll treat his future rolling episodes - and they will happen -- as minor irritations. Nothing a quick hosing and dry towel can't remedy.

mOOners 

by Kris

My calendar expired December 31, 2007. I haven't replaced it with a new one and that's an ok thing. Weekends for us are no different from weekdays and that's ok, too. We don't wear watches and somehow manage to make it through our days in timely fashion and this is also ok.
It is important to have some barometer of time and space and fortunately we have found such a guide in our Jocotepec roasted chicken shop, Rosticeria el Pechugón.

This bright and shiny franchise shop is open 7 days a week with reasonable prices for their delicious rotisserie chicken but every Wednesday they have a Special Deal, "el Miercoles de Promoción"..

Thus, Wednesday/Miercoles is the day around which our calendar revolves - it's amazing how quickly Wednesdays come!
The Special Deal is one chicken (halved) with chiles y papas (roasted potatoes) y salsa for $55 pesos (5 dollars). Not that buying this any other day for $69 pesos (6 dollars) would break the bank but we are living on a fixed income and trying to make the most of our pesos. And if we purchased this on Monday, we would be out of alignment the rest of the week.

Here's the chicken maestro readying another rack for the rotisserie - with an interested audience.

Mas papas y chiles 

This is the best smelling place in town! 

We stretch the chicken to last all week in a variety of ways - with the papas and other veggies for a regular meat and potatoes North American style meal - or in tortillas for our Mexican fix. The tender and moist chicken is also delicious in salads and sandwiches. The roasted papas are the base for excellent breakfast combos.

The spicy leftovers are the base for some outstanding soups/sopas.

Proving that you can take the girl out of winter but you can't take the winter love of soup creating out of the girl.

mOOners 

by Kris

Spring time arrives in our California home with baseball and strawberry shortcake. While there isn't a baseball in sight here in the eternal mecca of Spring that is Roca Azul/Lago de Chapala, we are surrounded by field after bountiful field of beautiful strawberries and raspberries.

 

The berries are grown by a major US producer in leased fields of dark rich soil. Acres of white plastic protect the growing plants from the elements and critters. Local workers are employed and organic growing methods are utilized to produce absolutely splendid fruits. The "latest" technology is used to tie-down the plastic coverings.

This pretty lady was happy to give us all the berries we wanted; we gave her candy to share with her friends as they finished their morning of work. Sweets for sweets.

We are fortunate to have friends with connections and we've procured and enjoyed the berries referred to as "segundos" or seconds. If this woman knew what a sweetheart our Canadian friend Ruth Ann is, she'd hand over the whole berry field.

Ken, Ruth Ann, and Gigi making the deal. 

Score! Russ lends a hand with the transport. Are these people "hunters" or "gatherers" or just lucky??

 The bounty...

 One strawberry...

Breakfast of fresh raspberry sauce on french toast...

Why these beauties are segundos is a mystery...a sweet, juicy, and delicious mystery at that.
Now about baseball...

mOOners